Chasing Blue Fire @Mt. Ijen

There is always another mountain to climb. How true!!
After my Rinjani journey, I keep on having this urge to explore other mountains, specifically the volcanos all around Java. Well...for anything below 3726m asl for a time being :)

The next easy but spectacular one is definitely Mt. Ijen located in Banyuwangi, the easternmost city in Java Island. I booked my flight almost immediately after I came back to Jakarta from my Rinjani trekking trip. The date was set on 10th Sept 2016.

Ijen Caldera viewed from over the rim, mystically beautiful

Banyuwangi can be reached by flight from Jakarta, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur with a transit in Surabaya, but the connection flight option from Surabaya are quite limited and the transit time can be long. If you have a lot of time and would like to opt for less expensive options after arriving Surabaya, there are morning, noon and evening train from Surabaya Gubeng station to Banyuwangi, which take around 6 to 7 hours journey, with the cost between IDR56K to IDR200K. You can plan the whole journey from Jakarta by train too, by the way there are no direct train from Jakarta to Banyuwangi. From Jakarta, take train from either Gambir or Pasar Senen station (cheaper options are from Pasar Senen) to Surabaya Gubeng station, the journey will take around 11 to 14 hours and the cost varies from IDR100K to IDR500K depending on the train class. From Surabaya Gubeng take another train to Banyuwangi. If you are heading for Ijen, the right arrival station is Karangasem station. Check out the train official site for train schedule and fare.

Another less expensive option will be by bus from Bungurasih bus terminal in Surabaya, which will also take around 6 to 7 hours. Patas bus seems to be the favorite option by locals and tourist as it is economical, convenient and comfortable. Choose Patas bus that is going directly to Banyuwagi (see the signage on the bus and make a point to ask), some patas bus will only bring you to Jember and you will have to take another bus to Banyuwangi which is not easy and can be tricky (just read my experience later on..). Refer to Ladju patas website for the schedule and bus fare from Surabaya to Banyuwangi.

I was supposed to be  accompanied by 3 gorgeous ladies from Surabaya throughout this Ijen trekking trip. We were supposed to travel by road from Surabaya to Banyuwangi when I decided to cancel my connecting flight from Surabaya to Banyuwangi. Yup...that what it supposed to be...until...I missed my flight from Jakarta to Surabaya!!!
A bit tired after long day at work and realizing I missed the flight ( I waited at wrong boarding gate ), somehow did not kill my determination to still be at Ijen as planned. With a bit of struggle to find alternative flight that can bring me there on time, I managed to work everything out. I asked my trekking companions to leave Surabaya for Banyuwangi without me. It was a sleepless night in the airport, with another discovery at 3am that I actually have to move to Halim Perdana Airport to catch my 7.45am flight to Malang. By the way, I made it to Malang on time with a smooth flight.

Next is the bus challenge. Similarly with Surabaya - Banyuwangi routing, it takes averagely 6 hour from Malang to Banyuwangi by road.  There is no direct bus to Banyuwangi from Malang (a different case from Surabaya), so from Malang we need to take bus going to Jember first, then take another bus from Jember to Banyuwangi. I got into taxi ( paid IDR65,000 at the airport taxi counter) to go to Arjosari bus terminal, located about 12 KM away , it took me around 40 minutes using the alternative small roads (main road already busy due to Eid Adha long weekend) to arrived at Arjosari terminal.
Finding Patas bus to Jember was easy, I just asked around and coincidentally there was an almost full Patas bus waiting at the right side of the terminal building. Waited just for 5 minutes, then we are already moving to Jember, i paid the IDR60.000 fee on the bus. Patas bus in general are comfortable enough for the 4 hour journey, right kind of cushioned seat and with air conditioning. Anyone taking Patas bus somehow should eat proper meal before the journey, or bring some packed decent food along. Bus will not stop for meal break, but along the way there will be street vendor who will get on the bus to sell snacks and drinks. The longest stop will be at Probolinggo terminal for around 15 minutes, dash for toilet here if you need to use one and be ready for long queue before you can do your business. If you travel alone, just make sure you let the bus driver or the conductor know that you are going to toilet, otherwise...bye bye bye! The interesting part is that, bus driver is willing to make short drop for anyone getting off along the way. A ride to Jember was smooth, 4 hours and I was there. Unfortunately, I took a wrong bus from Jember to Banyuwangi , it was a bus going to Denpasar which went through Banyuwangi and every half an hour it stop for 15 minutes to pick potential passenger. It took me 6 hours instead of 2 hours to reach Banyuwangi. As the bus did not make any stop at Banyuwangi bus terminal, I requested to be dropped at the Ojek (motorbike taxi) stop so I can directly take Ojek to my hotel.

It was a long journey, and this was one of the many annoying stop along the way. At Genteng, Banyuwangi. 

Kampoeng Joglo Ijen chalet at night

 

 The day view, the small paddy field was drying. Otherwise it should look nice.



This is a nice place to have a relaxing time before and after Ijen trekking.
Spacious room and nice interior. They do have large swimming pool too.

I arrived the hotel, Kampoeng Joglo Ijen at almost 10pm. Was so tired due to the long journey and lack of sleep. The hotel staffs were courteous enough to show me the way to my room. I freshened up and had fried noodle which was pre ordered by my friend cum trekking companion, Widia, who has arrived much earlier. At 12 midnight, without really had a chance to rest, we headed to Ijen.

I didn't expect to see so many other trekkers when we arrived at the Paltuding Post, but it was not unusual I guessed, since  it was Eid Adha long weekend by the way. We were accompanied by a guide,Mas Muji and Clementine, another trekker we met at the hotel. After getting all the necessary...entrance ticket (IDR10,000 for locals and IDR150,000 for foreigners),  pairs of gloves (for IDR10,000) and few shots of selfies :) we started walking up.

Five of us before the trekking

Even though trekking to Ijen's peak was nothing like doing Rinjani, but I get tired quickly in the beginning. But after gotten some advice, I managed my steps in a slower pace and it worked wonder. As that was my first time on Ijen, of course my target was to get to the blue fire while it can still be seen. The group had to split as I have to follow our guide pace to make it on time to blue fire (best before 4.30am). So 3 of us went ahead, to the peak in 1 hour 15 minutes. The journey was considered easy (only 3 KM from the post), except for the very strong wind on the last 300 meters before we reached the peak. I made a mistake for not taking my windbreaker jacket with me, instead I wore just a thin jacket which did not help much. The gloves somehow did a good job for keeping my hands warm.
We straight away did the descend to the crater to observe blue fire from a near distance. It was no longer a smooth trek, but rather a steep sandy and rocky path all the way down. I can smell a strong acrid smell of sulfur while we moved downwards. Once a while the smoke blown  towards us, and stung my eyes and my throat badly. The fact that I didn't get the proper gas mask (available for rent at IDR25,000) make it worse as my ordinary 3 layered face mask didn't seem to help much. But again, it was a divided thought between getting proper mask and whether it is hygienic enough to rent the recycled ones.

Halfway down towards the blue fire.

Those were the lights from hundreds of other trekkers behind us. This was taken from the blue fire point.

One of the many hard working sulfur miners, the strongest people around Ijen.

Some of the artwork from creative miners, put on sale as souvenir.

Ha ha...this might be the most spooky selfie I have ever take :)

 Plus the spooky candid too ;)

After about 30 minutes observing the blue fire and the miners doing the hard laboring, we walked towards the crater lake. It was still dark, so we can't see the whole caldera but we just went near the bank to touch the warm water. We decided to leave the site as the smoke became so violent and we have another chase to make...for the sunrise of course. For me the ascend back to the peak from the crater was in fact the toughest part of trekking Ijen. The super steep path, plus you got the scolding on and off from the group walking down somehow tested your patient. At some point, we have to stop quite a while just to let the going down trekker pass through as the path is narrow...and there are like hundreds and hundreds of them!
Anyway, after about 30 minutes, we found ourselves at the peak again walking towards the sunrise viewing points. Walking there at around 4 am with an almost "typhoon" was not easy. I was shivering to my bones and almost can't keep my feet on the ground due to the strong wind. Interestingly, along the way we can see people lie down inside the slots on the ground to protect them self from cold wind while waiting for the sunrise to appear. It was fun anyway observing them :)

A cool survivor, protecting himself from the cold freezing wind

We walked quite far towards the far end on the rim of the crater. Even though it was still dark in the dim light I could figure out a beautiful landscape around us.  Our guide tried his best to build the fire so we didn't suffer the freezing cold weather up there. But for me, once the sunrise appeared, I lost sense to the coldness...it was such a beautiful view...the sunrise and the whole surrounding of Ijen crater.

 The sun peeked through the hills

Such a breathtaking view up there

Ignore my expression...I was trying so hard not to shiver.

Together with our guide, Mas Muji

We spent quite sometime up there, captured as much as possible on our lenses. As much as I grateful for great weather on Rinjani, it seems Ijen was also being generous to me. It was super bright morning and the sulfur smoke was not blown toward us...so it was really amazing to be up there even though the wind was still strong and the weather was so cold.

When it almost 5.30am and as we can't really stand the coldness anymore, we decided to start our descend back to Paltuding post. Spectacular view along the way made us stop for more photos. I was just so grateful that Mas Muji brought us to the sunrise viewing point despite the strong cold wind,  otherwise we might missed this magnificent landscape.

Leaving the sunrise viewing point. We did a little bit running to keep ourselves warm.

It is almost magical

There is option to stay at the crater until sunrise and see the caldera from near. But that will never beat the view from over here.

We were lucky enough the sulfur smoke were blown low towards the caldera lake instead

A view you don't always get to see if you don't move that legs of yours. Go up the  mountains!!!

There is always great to have a selfie :)

Another great angle to view the caldera lake

It was worth all the long walk in the strong cold wind

At this point, everywhere you look you will only see great creation and magnificent beauty

Dangerously enjoyable moment at the crater rim

Many other trekkers leaving the sunrise viewing spots and starting the descend

Simply beautiful!!!

Really happy with the whole journey...but it was time to leave

On the way down, we took a short break at Bunder post and had a cup of black coffee (Rp5000/cup). I enjoyed the descend so much, it was really easy I could run almost all the way down. We met Widia and our two other friends on the way down, and walked the rest of the trek together. I believed it was a very enjoyable trekking for everyone in our group, with each of us achieving something meaningful as individual and each of us had our own beautiful story.

We stop at the coffee shop located at Bunder Post (2214m asl)

Back to Paltuding post, we were so happy with the journey. Do we looked tired?? Naaa....

We made our way back straight away to Kampoeng Joglo Ijen, had our breakfast and rested well until check out time. And before we leave the village, we had a superb lunch at one of the local restaurant there. The good food and the kind service from the owner added up to the whole feel good experiences.

My favorite rice cracker. Krupuk kampong.

Yummy!!

Those are the eels. If you don't fancy it, then you will never know how tasty it can be ;)

The lunch was a perfect closing for our Ijen journey. It was time to leave for Surabaya, and it was a 6 hours long journey...such a great journey with 3 gorgeous ladies.

We were all happy, as we have made our own new story. 

Ijen was a big surprise me, as I never thought it is that beautiful and it's own beauty is comparable to even Rinjani.